A Return to Mexico City

View from church in Cholula, Mexico

Our first visit to Mexico City, more than three years ago, was about discovery. Over the course of two weeks, we explored the historic center, climbed the pyramids of Teotihuacan, searched for monarch butterflies in the central highlands, and ate our way through countless taco stands and restaurants.

This time was different from the start. A friend, whom I met in Italian class, had invited us to join him and his partner, along with a few other friends, for a long weekend. He took on the role of planner and guide, like finding the Airbnb, securing hard to get restaurant reservations, and organizing a day trip to Puebla. Since we’d all been to Mexico City before, rather than spending our days figuring out where to go next, we were able to settle into the rhythm of the city.

During our first trip, Chris and I were definitely tourists and we had a lot of things we wanted to tick off. This time there was no pressure to maximize every hour. Our days began slowly, often lingering over coffee, fruit and pastries at the Airbnb before coalescing around a plan. Other than a few pre-planned activities, we simply enjoyed one of our favorite cities.

We walked through a different section of Chapultepec Park and strolled along Reforma, stopping to enjoy a long coffee break in one of the many cafes that line the boulevard. We revisited a few places downtown—like the Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Palacio Postal—and this time finally wandered inside to explore where we’d only admired them from the outside on the first trip. Importantly, we also discovered new restaurants.

The culinary highlight of the trip was dinner at Quintonil, consistently ranked among the world’s best restaurants. Over the course of a multi-course tasting menu, we experienced a creative interpretation of Mexican ingredients and traditions that was both refined and deeply rooted in place.

Another highlight was a day trip to Puebla, where colorful colonial architecture, local history, and an unforgettable mole tasting offered a deeper appreciation for one of Mexico’s most celebrated regional cuisines.

Some destinations are best experienced once. Others reward repeat visits. Mexico City belongs firmly in the latter category. The city, while extremely large, felt intimate in a way that only comes from not feeling like a tourist. Perhaps this had something to do with staying in an Airbnb located squarely in a residential neighborhood. Experiencing the sites and sounds alongside friends also lent a different perspective and allowed me to enjoy the city in a different way. I have no doubt that we will be back.