I returned to Far North Queensland at the end of October, the day after our Great Ocean Road drive, stepping off the plane in Cairns into the familiar hot, thick, tropical air. Fifteen years had passed since my first visit to Port Douglas, and it felt like a real treat to return—this time with my family: my sisters, my new brother-in-law, and Chris. I was excited to revisit a few things I’d done before and curious to see how much would feel familiar, how much had changed, and what entirely new experiences the week would bring.
Over the week, we were lucky enough to spot some unforgettable wildlife. Watch this video to see a cassowary strutting through the forest and a crocodile peeking out of the river—moments that made the trip feel truly alive.
Day 1 — Skyrail Revisited, Train Discovered
After picking up the rental car, we drove straight to the Skyrail, gliding above the rainforest canopy toward Kuranda.
I had ridden it on my first trip years ago, but doing it with my family made the whole experience more entertaining—especially when one of my sisters suddenly remembered she was afraid of heights.
Every time the cablecar rattled or swayed, she let out a startled scream, which only added to my amusement as we drifted over the lush, endless treetops.
From Kuranda, we boarded the Scenic Railway back down—my first time taking the train. The vintage carriages were charming and the views were fantastic, but the heat was intense, turning the ride into a slow, scenic sauna.
Still, it was fun and memorable in a way only tropical travel can be.
Day 2 — Drifting the Mossman River
Saturday morning took us north to the Mossman River, where we slipped into thermal rash guards and eased into the unbelievably clear, cool water to do a bit of river drifting. The river was so transparent it felt like floating through liquid glass. Our guide explained that a recent landslide had filled the river with fresh rock and gravel, creating the sandy bottom.
We drifted beneath tall trees and tangled rainforest, carried gently by the current as sunlight flickered across the rocks below. It was peaceful, refreshing, and one of those unexpectedly perfect activities you end up talking about for the rest of the trip.
Day 3 — A Quiet Day & Farmers Market Treats
Sunday turned into a rest day, which worked out because I started to feel a sore throat coming on in the afternoon. We still made it to the Port Douglas Farmers Market in the morning, a small but lively spread of stalls selling tropical fruit, baked goods, and handmade crafts. One of my favorite stops was a booth run by an Italian baker selling all kinds of breads—soft focaccia, loaves studded with sun-dried tomatoes, olives, herbs. I ended up practicing a bit of Italian with him and even managed to impress him with my pronunciation, which felt like a small victory.
We picked up a few provisions for the week, then spent the rest of the day relaxing back at the Airbnb: reading, resting, and preparing a feast of a picnic for the next day.
Day 4 — Mossman Gorge, Cassowaries, and a Flying Fox Picnic
Monday started at Mossman Gorge, where we did a short walk through lush forest before finding a busy bend of the river filled with swimmers. We ended up spending nearly two hours there—wading into the cold, fast-flowing water, letting the current push us downstream, laughing as we tried to hold our footing. The setting was beautiful: clear river, rounded stones, and rainforest crowding right up to the banks.
Back in the car (well, really a van), we drove onto the ferry for the short ride across the Daintree River. On the other side, we continued our drive toward Cape Tribulation. Along the way we passed a yellow traffic sign, informing us to be careful of cassowaries. We hoped, but didn’t think we would actually see one, so when we saw the car stopped ahead on the road, and then a cassowary with her chicks foraging along the side of the road, we were speechless. Seeing one in the wild felt both lucky and a little unreal, like watching a living dinosaur stroll past.
Seeing one in the wild felt both lucky and a little unreal, like watching a living dinosaur stroll past.
We picnicked at the Dubuji day-use area, near a grove of trees full of dozens of flying foxes, hanging like strange ornaments from the branches. As we ate our sandwiches, their squawks and squeals rose and fell around us, creating a kind of wild, chaotic background music. Tummies full, we followed the Dubuji boardwalk as it wound through a mangrove swamp. From there, we headed to Myall Beach for a short walk before the heat and humidity forced us to retreat to the air-conditioning of the van. On the way back south, we stopped at the Daintree Ice Cream Company to indulge in some exotic fruit-flavored ice cream. It was the perfect sweet ending to a long, warm day.
Day 5 — Out to the Outer Reef
Tuesday was devoted wholly to the Great Barrier Reef, around Mackay Coral Cay with Sailaway, and it exceeded every expectation. My first reef trip years ago had been a half-day skim over a lackluster patch of coral, but this time we went out farther, where the coral was vibrant and the water turns a deep, clear turquoise.
Between two different spots, I saw three turtles, each gliding slowly through the water; enormous giant clams glowing with neon colors; a bulky, curious grouper; a beautiful blue-speckled stingray; and countless bright fish weaving through coral gardens. It felt like dropping into another world—a living, moving kaleidoscope.
After snorkeling, we took a short glass-bottom boat ride to the cay itself. Hard to believe that the big mound of white sand underneath our feet was parrotfish poop. As we returned later in the afternoon, we could see dark clouds forming inland. We couldn’t have timed it any better.
That evening I experienced another highlight: cane toad racing. Loud, ridiculous, and totally cheerful—exactly the kind of chaotic fun you only find in Queensland. I absolutely loved it.
Day 6 — A Quiet Day & a Crocodile at Last
By Wednesday the pace slowed. We relaxed in the morning then got treated to lunch at Melaleuca, a multi-hatted restaurant (instead of Michelin, Australia has The Australian Good Food Guide which awards a Chef Hat to outstanding restaurants). It was a sumptuous lunch of local seafood and produce, sometimes inflected with a hint of Asian. I tried mud crabs and Moreton Bay bugs for the first time. Tasty, but I think I still prefer Dungeness.
With the mid-day heat, it was hard to pass up ice cream considering we were parked minutes from Capannina. I had a second opportunity to practice my Italian, this time a much longer conversation with Tommaso, who had moved to Port Douglas from Florence a year ago.
In the afternoon we boarded a Daintree River sunset cruise, which began in full sun, the heat settling around us like a thick blanket. The river moved slowly, bordered by dense mangroves, and for a while it felt like we were just drifting through a hot, quiet tunnel of green. Our guide did point out a variety of birds, even some highly sought after ones like the Papuan frogmouth, but what we really wanted to see was a crocodile (even though the warmer waters significantly reduced the likelihood of that).
But as the light softened and the air began to cool, the wildlife woke up a bit. And finally—after scanning the banks for what felt like ages—we spotted a crocodile resting almost motionless near the waterline, bobbing its head up and down. Seeing one in the wild made the whole cruise feel complete.
Day 7 — One Last Drive South
Thursday came with the usual packing and checkout shuffle. We left the Airbnb at 10 a.m. and made the familiar drive back to Cairns, savoring the last glimpses of sugarcane fields, palm-lined roads, and that shimmering Coral Sea. We returned the car and then took an Uber into Cairns for lunch at Prawn Star where we consumed copious amounts of prawns (of course), bugs and salmon sashimi.
By midafternoon, we were at the airport again, ready to for our flight back to Sydney and onto our next set of adventures in New Zealand.
Reflections
The weather was the only unchanged thing from this trip to the one fifteen years ago. Even the Skyrail, which itself hasn’t changed—I recognized the different sections where we got out to walk around—felt new simply because I was experiencing it with my family. Everything else that week unfolded with a sense of rediscovery: slow mornings, shared meals and adventures that stitched the days together. It reminded me ho returning to a familiar place with different people can make a whole landscape feel refreshed, ready to show you something new.