We set out from Melbourne on a rainy day—not exactly auspicious—but that didn’t dampen our spirits. Our goal: a 3.5-day drive along one of the world’s most scenic coastal roads, the Great Ocean Road. Along the way, we were lucky enough to spot kangaroos, koalas, platypus, and little penguins. You can watch all our wildlife encounters in this short video:
From there, the rest of our day-by-day adventure unfolds…
Day 1: Rain, Koalas, and a Nighttime Platypus Hunt
Our first stop was Anglesea, where we found a cozy lunch spot called Lovehouse, which served creative Asian-fusion cuisine. Refueled, we continued to Split Point Lighthouse for a quick walk and some ocean views, followed by the obligatory photo at the Great Ocean Road Memorial Arch.
Heavy rain convinced us to skip Erskine Falls, but by mid-afternoon the skies cleared. We arrived in Kennett River at the Kafe Koala for a snack and drove along Grey Road hoping to spot koalas—but could see none. Disappointing, but I had one more chance planned for the next day.
That evening, we drove to Forrest to meet Bruce at 6:30 PM for a platypus canoe tour on Lake Elizabeth. We were a group of four: Chris and I in one canoe, two other guests with Bruce in another. Almost immediately after pushing off from the dock we spotted a platypus—smaller than expected, apparently their size (and numbers) constrained by the available space in the lake. Over 30 magical minutes, we saw three more platypus.
Retracing our steps back to the car in the near-dark, we were treated to glow worms, which I learned, were not worms at all, but the larvae of a fungus gnat.
Following behind Bruce’s car back to the main road, he suddenly stopped. That’s when we saw a startled kangaroo. As we continued driving, it hopped frantically to get away from us, eventually disappearing into the trees. Not a minute later, Bruce stopped again and we wondered what it could possibly be this time. Would you believe it, but a koala crossing the road? Perhaps stunned by the headlights, it plopped down in front of us for few seconds before ambling off along the side of the road. Koalas move surprisingly fast! This encounter more than made up for the morning disappointment.
Day 2: Rainforest Magic and Coastal Wonders
We started the day at Maits Rest Rainforest Walk, where ancient ferns and towering trees made us feel like we had stepped into another world.
A detour off the Great Ocean Road to the Cape Otway Lighthouse ended in disappointment: it was temporarily closed due to a power outage. Fortunately, the wildlife encounters on the way out more than made up for it.
Along Lighthouse Road, we finally saw koalas, not one, but five, scattered high up in the eucalyptus trees. The cherry on top, however, was when another one crossed right front of our car—we were the only ones there again. Nature seemed determined to reward our patience.
Turning inland towards Lavers Hill, we stopped at Yatzies for a snack and watched vibrant parrots—Australian king parrots and sulphur-crested cockatoos—swoop down to eat from the bird feeders on the deck. From there the road turned back towards the ocean and we continued to the rock formations that define the Great Ocean Road.
Gibson’s Steps was closed, but the view from above was still incredible. We then visited the Twelve Apostles—more commercialized than expected, with a massive parking lot filled with tourist buses and a gift shop—but still breathtaking. Nearby Loch Ard Gorge, also closed off, offered rugged cliffs and dramatic scenery from above.
We ended the day in Port Campbell at the quirky Sow and Piglets (which I learned, is what the Twelve Apostles were originally called) Brew Pub & Guest House . That evening, we returned to the Twelve Apostles boardwalk to watch the fairy penguins return to shore. We were six brave souls, shivering in the cold, but it was truly magical.
Day 3: Rugged Coastlines and One Last Hope for Wildlife
Our third day was a shorter one, but it did not disappoint. The spectacular coastline continued to unfold as we first stopped at London Bridge, once a double-arched natural bridge until part of it collapsed dramatically in 1990, stranding a pair of tourists on the newly formed “island.”
Next was The Grotto, where a staircase led down to a tranquil pool framed by eroded limestone—an opening that perfectly captured the horizon.
From there we drove to the Bay of Martyrs and walked down to the beach, the waters alternating a deep sapphire and bright turquoise. Then it was onto the Bay of Islands Coastal Park. The short walks between viewpoints took us past wind-carved cliffs and quiet coves, each offering a different angle on the dramatic landscapes that shaped—and sometimes doomed—the ships that sailed here.
Then we drove to Logan’s Beach, known as a nursery for southern right whales during winter. We knew the season was ending and sightings were unlikely, but after two days of unbelievable wildlife luck, we figured it was worth a shot. No whales this time—just the endless rumble of waves and a coastline that seemed to stretch into forever.
By early afternoon we rolled into Warrnambool, checked into the Eight Spence Motel, and did the most glamorous of travel chores: laundry. Dinner was an unexpected delight—Penang Alley, a Malaysian takeout spot run by a chef from Penang. We weren’t expecting to find delicious beef rendang and laksa in a quiet alley of Warrnambool, but travel loves surprises.
It was a mellow evening, a welcome pause after two full days of wildlife chases and cliffside walks.
Day 4: Waterfalls and a Scenic Return
On our way back to Melbourne, we retraced our steps back through Lavers Hill to finally see a waterfall.
First though, I had to see a small stand of California redwoods, which seemed almost otherworldly tucked into the middle of the Otways. Their perfectly straight trunks rose like pillars, creating a cool, quiet cathedral of filtered light. These trees were planted in the 1930s as part of a forestry experiment. It gave me hope that to see a tiny fragment of Northern California unexpectedly thriving in coastal Victoria.
Next up: Hopetoun Falls, a short but satisfyingly steep walk down a series of steps enveloped in rainforest greens. When we reached the viewing platform, the waterfall revealed itself in a rush of white water spilling dramatically over a dark rock face into a pool below.
From there, we drove the winding road out of the Otways and aimed toward Melbourne, making one final stop at the Cranbourne Gardens. Even though we were tired, this place was worth the detour: a beautifully designed landscape showcasing Australia’s native flora in striking, sculptural ways. It felt like a quiet, fitting bookend to a trip defined by wilderness.
Reflections
Our 3.5-day Great Ocean Road adventure was perfect—after a rainy start, the weather cooperated, the roads were quiet, and wildlife encounters kept surprising us. From platypus and koalas to fairy penguins and kangaroos, it was an unforgettable journey.
Traveling outside peak season meant we had the road mostly to ourselves, which made all the difference. If you ever consider a Great Ocean Road adventure, don’t be afraid to chase wildlife, take the small detours, and embrace the unexpected.