My exploration of Kathmandu was split in two: pre- and post-Everest Base Camp trek. On the weekend Chris and I arrived in the city we spent a day and half sightseeing. Upon my return to Kathmandu, we got to see three more UNESCO World Heritage sites. All told, I saw six out of the seven sites that are found in the Kathmandu Valley. The one I missed was Patan’s Durbar Square.
TABLE OF CONTENTS (* INDICATES UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES)
Downtown Kathmandu (Thamel) and Durbar Square
We arrived at our hotel, the Fairfield by Marriott Kathmandu, after a 21-hour flight, around 4:00 A.M. Quickly changed, brushed our teeth and fell asleep 30-minutes later. When we opened our eyes, it was 11:00 A.M.! At least we were feeling somewhat refreshed.
Having missed the hotel breakfast, we ventured out into the hustle and bustle of the city and made our way through the traffic (human and motorized) to a local restaurant called Spize for lunch. Momos were instantly recognizable as we’ve had that many times in San Francisco and most recently in Crested Butte so we decided to try something else. It looked like Nepalese food was a mix of Chinese and Indian cuisine. We ordered butter tea (it was savory and surprisingly good but not something I could drink often or in great quantities like regular tea), Nepalese vegetable stew served with tigmo (steamed bread) and noodles (chow mein) which were super spicy.
Later that afternoon we met up with my friend and made our way to Durbar Square. We got a kick walking the narrow streets of Thamel – electrical wires woven into tangled balls hanging precariously above people, cars and scooters, packed like sardines, barely able to move past each other.
Several times, especially as we got closer to the Square, all manner of traffic ceased to flow and we’d find ourselves standing still, waiting for the gridlock to unravel itself before we could push forward. I was laughing at the ridiculousness of it all, possibly only in the way a tourist who experiences something like this once in a great while can.
Not realizing that we needed to get tickets, we started walking into the Square itself, only to get waved down by a policeman who pointed us to the ticket booth. A guide approached us and offered to show us around the ancient temple complex. Since we knew nothing about the history of the Square or the various temples and buildings surrounding it, it seemed like a good idea.
Our first stop was to see the current Kumari, or living goddess, of Nepal. We apparently timed it just right as she would be making an appearance. I learned that a little girl is chosen at young age to be the ‘goddess.’ The child leaves her parents to live in a special home where a few times a day she shows up at a window for people to worship her.
As we waited in the courtyard of Kumari Ghar, the building where she lives, I marveled at the beautiful wood carving. I had noticed that intricate wood carving graced many of the structures around the city, whether windows, door frames or roofs. Soon a young girl, dressed in red with her face ornately made up, appeared on the balcony and peered through the middle window. The small crowd hushed and people started praying. After a few minutes Kumari retreated back into the room and everyone left. It was a strangely beautiful encounter to witness.
We continued on our tour, winding through the narrow streets, with our guide pointing out various Hindu statues and temples along the way.
Much of Durbar Square was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake and signs of reconstruction were still present. Nonetheless, it was fun walking around and taking in all the sights and sounds around the really colorful square, literally and figuratively.
Around 6:00 P.M., after walking around for about 90 minutes, we parted ways with our guide and headed back to the Thamel district for dinner. It took a few re-orientations with Google Maps but we finally found Yala Cafe. The main dining room was hosting a wedding so we sat in the courtyard. After perusing the extensive menu, we all opted for Indian food. Everything was freshly prepared and delicious.
Considering we had only arrived that morning, and we had a 4:30 A.M. start the next day, we decided to call it an evening and head back to our hotel. Shortly after getting back, the two of us were fast asleep, re-energizing for what was going to be a super packed day.
Nagarkot Sunrise, Changu Narayan Temple and Bhaktapur
It seemed like we had only just gone to sleep before it was time to wake up again. Our guide picked us up promptly at 5:00 A.M. and we headed east of Kathmandu to the hill town of Nagarkot. As we made our way through the city, we saw crowds of people waiting at the bus stations and taxi stands, trying to make their way back home to their villages to celebrate Dashain, a major Hindu festival that honors the goddess Durga.
After half an hour we reached the outskirts of Kathmandu and wound our way above the fog line and into pine tree forests. The air was cool and crisp. We reached a look out point just as the sun’s rays were starting to pierce through the clouds. Unfortunately the clouds never really left us. While we could see several peaks of the Langtang Himal and Annapurna ranges we couldn’t see Mount Everest. Regardless, it was still amazing to get our first glimpse of the Himalayas.
Sunrise photos in hand, we drove back to the town of Nagarkot itself and indulged in a breakfast buffet at Club Himalaya. Tummies filled, we embarked on our 13 km hike to Changu Narayan, one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal. The trail/road, littered with a lot of garbage, wound down the mountainside through small villages. Dogs, goats and chickens were a common sight. It was interesting to see how the people lived, and we walked past lots of women drying and sorting corn, drying chilis on the rooftops, and men butchering meat for Dashain. The distant views across the Kathmandu Valley were beautiful – the terraces dotted with homes against the magnificent backdrop of the Himalayas.
Two-thirds of the way through the hike we climbed back up into the forest and entered a city park. It was a nice change to get away from civilization until we came upon a family that had butchered 6 chickens and was preparing to cook them over a makeshift fire. As we left the park and came back out onto a road, our guide pointed out the temple on a small hill. We were almost there.
When we reached the parking lot of the temple, we stopped at one of the many shops to rest. I learned more about Naraya, our guide, who was 39 and already had a girl aged 18 and a boy aged 16. He didn’t look old enough to have children in their late teens! We talked about the local school system and how both his children wanted to go to school overseas given the limited opportunities in Nepal.
I paid for our drinks and after getting our entrance tickets, we walked past the homes and businesses that lined the walkway up to the temple. Changu Narayan, like structures we saw in Durbar Square, was destroyed in the 2015 earthquake, and bamboo scaffolding still covered the temple. Piles of bricks and wooden planks littered the courtyard, a testament to the painstakingly slow process of restoration. We slowly circled the temple and admired the carved woodwork and masonry that wasn’t obstructed by reconstruction.
From Changu Narayan we drove to Bhaktapur, a bustling ancient city that was designated a World Heritage site in 1979. By now I was getting tired and hot but we soldiered on, walking through its four main squares, started with Dattatraya, on to its own Durbar Square around which a number of significant temples are built. We admired the numerous windows of the 55 Window Palace, crossed the threshold of the Golden Gate and entered the courtyard of the Taleju Temple. As non-Hindus, we were not allowed to enter the temple but could continue on to Naga Pokhari, a large stone pool.
By this point I was getting templed out so it was good when we stopped for lunch at a rooftop restaurant that afforded views of the action in Taumadhi Square and its two main temples: Nyatapola and Bhairavnath. The three of us had a good discussion about politics over a few Newari specialties.
I was happy when we finally got back to the hotel and could shower and relax. That evening we walked back to Thamel and had dinner at Japanese-fusion restaurant Momotarao. Not the best Japanese food but a nice break from the Nepali food that we’d been eating.
The following morning Chris and I parted ways as we headed off to begin our separate adventures.
Back in Kathmandu – Swayambhunath Temple
The afternoon we returned to Kathmandu from Lukla, after completing the Everest Base Camp trek, my friend and I, at the recommendation of others in our group, decided to check out Swayambhunath, or the Monkey Temple.
It felt like we were in a video game the way our driver was weaving in and out of traffic to get there. We drove to the Western part of the city, up through a posh looking neighborhood, before arriving at the temple complex. Once inside, we spent an hour walking around the UNESCO World Heritage designated site. It was pretty crowded with locals and tourists. Monkeys were everywhere. I really loved seeing the main stupa surrounded by all these Hindu temples. There were great views of the city and it seemed like this was the place where teens came to hang out.
Boudhanath Stupa and Pashupati Temple
After breakfast, our group piled into a bus and headed out for some sightseeing. The first stop was Boudhanath, the largest stupa in the world. It’s circled by shops selling arts and crafts, restaurants and monasteries. We visited Guru Lhakhang Monastery, walking past its large prayer wheel: downstairs we saw monks reciting prayers, while upstairs we had close up views of the stupa.
Lhakpa then led us to a school for monks just on the outskirt of Boudhanath. Young children where hanging out or playing in the grassy field while the older monks were inside the temple chanting their daily prayers and playing traditional musical instruments.
From there we returned to the main stupa and walked around it, stopping at one shop where we admired paintings of mandalas and singing bowls. I was tempted to buy something but then thought better of it. While waiting for the others to return to our meeting point, we watched a man re-apply the reddish ochre color to the domed section of the stupa. He only had a bucket of paint and simply tossed it – the fact that the paint landed in a curve and over the old marking seemed remarkable.
Back in the bus, we drove to our next stop, Pashupatinath. While the UNESCO World Heritage designation belongs to the temple that’s located in the heart of this complex, the main point of interest that we came to observe seemed to be the Hindu funeral rituals being performed along the banks of the Bagmati River. On the one hand it seemed morbid for us to be standing there watching a dead person on a pyre burn, but on the other, it was interesting to learn how another culture approached death. What I did appreciate about the public nature of the Hindu cremation ceremony was that there would be no uncertainty regarding whose ashes were left behind. We crossed the river and stood in front of Pashupati Temple, where more bodies were being prepared for cremation.
In a somewhat somber mood, we finished our tour and returned to the hotel. The rest of the afternoon was our to enjoy before getting together for our final group dinner.
Coda
Kathmandu reminded me of India, but on a smaller scale. A multi-sensory experience. A feast for the eyes and ears. Crowded, but not as crowded. Chaotic, but not as chaotic.
In total it seemed like the 2.5 days I spent sightseeing was enough time to cover the main attractions in and around Kathmandu.
It’s not a city that I would return to just for the sake of it, the way I happily visit London when I get a chance, but as a gateway to the majestic Himalayas for future treks – absolutely!
Additional Info
- We arranged our full day Nagarkot, Changu Narayan and Bhaktapur excursion with a local tour operator called Adventure Great Himalaya.
- Our first hotel was a right on the edge of the Thamel (downtown) district so walking to restaurants, shops and tourist attractions was pretty easy.
- I never felt unsafe walking around or taking the taxis
- Before hopping in a taxi, it’s best to agree on the price first. The hotel can provide guidance on what would be reasonable.
- Every business (including taxis) we interacted with gladly accepted payment in US dollars.
